A sense of place is best exemplified by passages
in
which
figurative and literal sites are revealed, in geographic, visual
and social contexts. This article offers some cases in point.
Words sweep across the pages of American literature, bringing
into view sights and sounds and images.
For those outside the United States, who can only imagine what
visual splendors lie behind the undulating syllables "Florida" or
"South Carolina" or the staccato rhythms of "Texas" or
"Massachusetts," American writers can be wondrous escorts. As
authors delineate the places they know, from the pristine past of
memory or perhaps from their everyday glimpses of a harsher
present reality, they reveal, more intimately and more profoundly
than travel guidebooks, the individual tiles of "place" which,
when taken together, form a mosaic of the United States.
Readers might be transported across an ocean to the big city --
such as the teeming streets of New York -- and find enchantment
there. In World's Fair, E.L. Doctorow turns a sanitation
company's water wagon from a utility truck cleaning streets into
a vehicular sorcerer, and the stream it leaves in its path
becomes a newfound urban waterway:
The street was black and shining. In the raging course of
water flowing swiftly along the curb I tossed [an] ... ice cream
stick. Other children had appeared and dropped in their sticks
and twigs. We followed our boats back down the block as they
turned and twisted in the current, followed them down the gentle
incline of Eastburn Avenue to their doom, a waterfall pouring
into the sewer grate at the corner of 173rd Street.
David Guterson, who has gained recognition mostly for depicting
the Pacific Northwest, also has vivid recollections of his
boyhood in a small Rhode Island town in the Northeast. In one of
the stories in his collection, The Country Ahead of Us, the
Country Behind, he presents Wilkes as a place
...where the light in early winter seems to roll off the
backs of the clouds and ignite along the waters of ponds and
millstreams, and the cold rot smell of the barren forests comes
ghostly out of the tough earth, and the gold air and sky have a
muted volume of both space and spirit broken only by the reach of
church spires, soft-white and giant against the slow maple hills.
What cuts deeply for Doctorow and Guterson - memory - is
complemented by what viscerally affects Pat Conroy, and his
autobiographical protagonist, Tom Wingo, in The Prince of
Tides.
"My wound is geography," he observes, adding that "it is also my
anchorage, my port of call...":
I was born and raised on a Carolina sea island and I carried
the sunshine of the low-country, inked in dark gold, on my back
and shoulders. As a boy I was happy above the channels,
navigating a small boat between the sandbars with their quiet
nation of oysters exposed on the brown flats at the low
watermark. I knew every shrimper by name, and they knew me and
sounded their horns when they passed me fishing in the river.
Across the American landscape, in the high elevations of Montana
brought to life by novelist Ivan Doig, nature and wildlife also
have a role to play. In Dancing at the Rascal Fair, he
writes:
We came to the Two Medicine River in sunny mid-afternoon and
were met by gusts of west wind that shimmered the strong new
green of the cottonwood and aspen groves into the lighter tint of
the leaves, bottom sides, so that tree after tree seemed to be
trying to turn itself inside out. In the moving air as we and
the sheep went down the high bluff, a crow lifted off straight up
and lofted backwards, letting the gale loop him upward. I called
to Varick my theory that maybe wind and not water had bored this
colossal open tunnel the Two Medicine flowed through. And then
we bedded the sheep, under the tall trees beside the river.
Midway between the Carolinas and Montana, the nation's endlessly
flat midsection reveals itself in Jane Smiley's description of a
family's vast spread, in A Thousand Acres:
A mile to the east, you could see three silos that marked
the northeastern corner, and if you raked your gaze from the
silos to the house and barn, then back again, you would take in
the immensity of the piece of land my father owned, six hundred
forty acres, a whole section, paid for, no encumbrances, as flat
and fertile, black, friable, and exposed as any piece of land on
the face of the earth.
Writing in and about the southwestern United States, Rudolfo
Anaya brings the landscape of his native New Mexico into precise
focus promptly in the opening paragraph of Bless Me,
Ultima:
Ultima came to stay with us the summer I was almost seven.
When she came the beauty of the llano unfolded before my eyes,
and the gurgling waters of the river sang to the hum of the
turning earth. The magical time of childhood stood
still, and the pulse of the living earth pressed its mystery into
my living blood. She took my hand, and the silent, magic powers
she possessed made beauty from the raw, sun-baked llano, the
green river valley, and the blue bowl which was the white sun's
home. My bare feet felt the throbbing earth and my body trembled
with excitement. Time stood still, and it shared with me all that
had been, and all that was to come....
Each writer has one's own take on "place." For many, including
Richard Russo, who concentrates on the small towns of the U.S.
Northeast, place is denoted by society. In Russo's case, the
world he has known is in decline. He wistfully conveys this turn
of events again and again in his books, as in this passage from
The Risk Pool, set in mythical Mohawk, New York:
Summer had flown. Fourth of July. Mohawk Fair, Eat the
Bird, and Winter... Indeed, a great deal of territory had been
surrendered since our ancestors had stolen the land and erected
white churches with felled trees. Up and down the Mohawk valley
the green world had gone brown and gray, and the people who lived
beneath the smokestacks and in the shadows of the tanneries were
scared that even the brown and gray might not last. They didn't
know what came after brown and gray, and neither did I. One
thing was for sure. Each Mohawk Fair was sadder and grayer than
the last. And winter followed. With a capital W.
This sociological treatment of place finds its way as well into
the writings of Ward Just, a foreign correspondent turned
novelist whose trenchant tales of Washington life penetrate the
emotions that pervade the nation's capital. In Nicholson At
Large, he blends Baedeker with commentary as he observes:
He swept past the Washington Monument and into Rock Creek
Park, the Jefferson Memorial to his left; the last time he'd seen
Mr. Jefferson, cobwebs hung from his marble nose. In Washington,
the monuments did not change. Landmarks were where they always
were. The people changed but the buildings remained the same. He
thought that in some ways the buildings and what they represented
were more important than the people, they were manifestations of
continuity. To those who lived in Washington they were
apparitions from a submerged past and therefore an
affirmation.
Similarly, John Berendt strikes at the heart of Savannah,
Georgia, in his enduring nonfiction bestseller, Midnight in
the
Garden of Good & Evil. He observes that although the city
had
enchanted him, he also had come to understand the principal
reason for its "self-imposed estrangement from the outside
world," the fact that it was determined "to preserve a way of
life it believed to be under siege from all sides." He writes:
For me, Savannah's resistance to change was its saving
grace. The city looked inward, sealed off from the noises and
distractions of the world at large. It grew inward, too, and in
such a way that its people flourished like hothouse plants tended
by an indulgent gardener. The ordinary became extraordinary.
Eccentrics thrived. Every nuance and quirk of personality
achieved greater brilliance in that lush enclosure than would
have been possible anywhere else in the world.
Ultimately, though, most writers who concentrate on a sense of
place view their surroundings from a visual perspective. Thus,
to Anne Rivers Siddons, who normally limns the southeastern
section of the nation in her fiction, Palm Springs, California,
emerges in her novel Fault Lines as
...a great swathe of green, a dense emerald prayer rug,
flung down in all the tawny, wild-animal colors of the desert...
Palms, jacarandas, hibiscus, lantana and a great many other
exotic flora for which I had no name yet, formed bowers and
islands in the almost continuous velvet carpet that...was a
network of golf courses without parallel in the United
States.
Even so, even when the focus is on description, a drop of fantasy
invariably dapples the paragraph. The title village in
Volcano,
Hawaiian-born writer Garrett Hongo's memoir of childhood,
...is a big chunk of the sublime I'd been born to -- the
craters and ancient firepit and huge black seas of hardened lava,
the rain forest lush with all varieties of ferns, orchids, exotic
gingers and wild lilies, the constant rain and sun-showers all
dazzled me, exalted me... There was something magical about it
-- a purgatorial mount in the middle of the southern ocean -- and
there was something of it native to me, an insinuation of secret
and violent origins and an aboriginal past.
And, composing her thoughts from the hushed beauty and solitude
of an island in the north central United States, between Canada
and the state of Minnesota, Linda Hogan, a Native American poet
and novelist reflects in Solar Storms on what it means
when one
is situated within "the hands of nature":
In these places things turned about and were other than what
they seemed. In silence, I pulled through the water and saw how
a river appeared through rolling fog and emptied into the lake.
One day, a full-tailed fox moved inside the shadows of trees,
then stepped into a cloud. New senses came to me. I was equal
to the animals, hearing as they heard, moving as they moved,
seeing as they saw.
Finally, the gifted writer can bring it all together -- nature,
place, society -- with the wisp of nostalgia that always
accompanies memory. Barbara Kingsolver reveals this in the title
essay from her collection, High Tide in Tucson. Musing
about the
impact of having transplanted herself from rural Kentucky to the
heat of Tucson, Arizona, she reveals that she still hears the
"secret tides" of the creek back home "as I force tomatoes to
grow in the drought-stricken hardpan of my strange backyard
...yet I never cease to long in my bones for what I left
behind. I open my eyes on every new day expecting that a creek
will run through my backyard under broad-leafed maples, and that
my mother will be whistling in the kitchen. Behind the howl of
coyotes, I'm listening for meadowlarks.
In a larger sense, aren't we all?